Being on the road, especially for a long time, is a unique experience, but also not one without physical and psychological hardship. In this article, I want to take you to the high altitudes of South America. This unique and lonely continent has a lot of great places both to enjoy and to face different tough experiences. Travel
San Pedro de Atacama-Chile…
In early 2013, after spending two months in Argentina and Chile, I set off to travel again and headed north. I was really curious to find out more about Bolivia. Argentina and Chile had been great, but couldn’t quite satiate my heightened expectations from South America. My northernmost stop in Chile would be the one of the most arrid and highest altitude deserts around the world: San Pedro de Atacama, situated at an altitude of 2400 meters. Atacama was one on my initial list of travel and I was looking forward to doing lots of things there. I reached the area after a 17-hour Cama bus trip from La Serena. This was my second longest bus ride in South America.
If you are ever in San Pedro de Atacama, be prepared for the adverse effects of high altitudes and daily drastic changes in temperatures. Really cold mornings followed by a scorching sun and sweltering heat during daytime; then suddenly freezing cold temperatures lasting through the night sometimes accompanied by strong winds. Atacama has an expansive scenery offering a diverse range of activities and sightseeing opportunities such as cycling, hiking, an archeology museum with mummies on display, a salt canyon, daily tours to Valle de Muerte, geysers, hotsprings, ancient archeological sites dating back as long as 9000 years and native settlements like Pukara de Quitor, amazing sunsets and stargazing spots, among others. During trips in the Atacama region, make sure you wear a pair of comfortable sneakers, have a bathing suit, towels, sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat and a sufficient supply of drinking water. Visits to this harsh environment are not recommended for people who suffer from hypertension, kids under six years old and pregnant women.
One other thing that I remember about San Pedro de Atacama is the commercial approach of the tour companies. Their greed for money really bothered me. I reckon the situation must be much worse now due to the worsening economic situation of our lonely planet. There were a lot of companies to choose from. I chose La Layana but a certain level of tour services are available from more or less all companies.
At the time, I had recently retired from the navy at the age of 46 and was fit enough to handle long walks and rides, but after my first daily bicycle tour I was exhausted. The next day I spent my time at the hostel resting and eating nourishing food. After a daily tour on the third day I felt sick and drained. Being miserable like this made it impossible to enjoy my time there. I thought that it would be better to be in a big city; at least one that has a decent hospital in case of health problems.
From San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) to La Paz (Bolivia)…
I took a night bus to Arica on the sea level border city to Bolivia. There was not much of interest in Arica, given my poor state of health at the time. I immediately took another bus to La Paz in hopes of getting better in a big city and getting some rest in my third country in South America.
Crossing the border into Bolivia…
The bus started climbing from sea-level Arica to the bare mountains offering a sea view in the first part of the journey, then the scenery turned into one of just mountains, hills, bare ground and beautiful clouds in the sky. After some hours, we reached a border crossing. The border crossing area was like a Mad Max movie set in a barren land. I wasn’t feeling well and had to pass water frequently. A woman on the bus fainted and a local woman tried to help her come around by having her sniff some folk medicine and leaned on her, keeping her legs upside down. It was difficult to breathe fully on the stuffy bus and felt like there wasn’t enough air to fill one’s lungs. I kept taking deep breaths but every time I tried to take a deep breath, it just felt like the oxygen wasn’t enough. When we reached La Paz, the only thing I wanted to do was to find a decent hotel and recover from my trip. I took a taxi to reach a hotel.
First hours in La Paz…
Most of the time, whenever I get to a new location, I am excited to see around the city and discover new things. But that time, when I arrived in La Paz, my only purpose was to reach the hotel, eat and have a deep long sleep to celebrate my birthday.
The traffic was a bit of a mess. There were various types of cars; people walking on the streets – some in traditional and some in contemporary outfits. At first glance, the sight of too many rooftops and unpainted house walls catch one’s eye in the city which was founded on a valley.
The hotel was very nice; particularly after staying at so many hostels. I was finally alone in my room peacefully. But contrary to my wishes the night at the hotel was a real disappointment. This nice hotel room was a birthday present to myself but I barely got any sleep, had a hard time breathing comfortably and felt terribly.
Introducing “Altitude Sickness”…
After I reached La Paz, I realized that the altitude of this city was also quite high; around 3800-4000 meters! Then, I started mentioning my health issues to friends and followers. Their comments on my symptoms identified my situation: I had altitude sickness! The altitude had really struck me. Only after four days could I recover slightly and found the energy to write and do things.
Lessons I learned…
Health officials’ warnings against altitude sickness must be treated seriously and advice followed cautiously. I am not a doctor, but here are some recommendations for traveling to high altitudes:
- Ensure that you are in good physical shape
- Follow routes that ascend gradually (not like me)
- Drink at least three liters of water a day at constant intervals
- Don’t smoke
- Don’t eat much
- Read and be informed about altitude sickness
- Consult a physician for possible preventive medication before traveling to high altitudes
After arriving at a high altitude location, if you feel sick or experience any discomfort, do the following for a certain period depending on your physical condition and individual capacity for adaptation to the new altitude:
- Rest and relax in bed
- Stay hydrated: drink water and mate de coca (in Bolivia and Peru) as much as you can
- Chew coca leaves
- Avoid strenuous activities
- Be prepared to brave the following
- Exhaustion
- Nausea
- Headaches
- More uncomfortable symptoms
To travel or not to travel…
That is not the question. I’ve known people strongly rooted in their place of residence, showing resistance to getting out of their life or making changes. Travel is a greater challenge for those kinds of people. Their circumstances and conditions may be that way; I respect that. But there is no gain without effort. To experience different things, perhaps to discover a possibility to change your mindset or your personality and observe yourself in a different cultural context, travel is a magnificent opportunity.
Even if you feel very uneasy in high altitudes, please be patient. Time helps. In my case, I finally adapted to the altitude. I recovered after five days in La Paz. Taking risks is part of being on the road. For me, this was also an outstanding experience.
Life is a great possibility and travel is a tremendous gift. Do not prematurely decide to give up on traveling. There is so much to see and learn in every country for as long as you are careful and take good care of yourself.
Travel safe and stay healthy. With my respects.
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